Translate

Thursday 14 May 2015

Haunted Well at Himeji Castle, Japan-- Okiku and the Nine Plates

Well,

I once watched the ending to The Ring (yes, I've never actually seen the whole thing). I have to admit that it's pretty creepy.

But, not as creepy as Ringu.

"What do you mean? You JUST said that you never actually watched the whole thing!"

Yes, assumed critics, but I am about to share some culture that strengthens my point.

The Japanese version (read: the original version--though technically the original version is the Japanese book by Koji Suzukim, but you know) is creepier, especially when you understand the Japanese cultural context. Samara, in the American version, just looks like a creepy white girl who crawls out of wells, whereas, the Japanese Sadako carries a long history of Japanese paranormal lore.

For instance, the white getup and long black hair is the signature look of the yurei.

Yurei ( 幽霊) are essentially Japanese ghosts--though there are other terms that are used to describe dead spirits such as Obake or Yokai (among others; Japanese folklore is filled with scary things).

Now, yurei have a distinct look, which is how Sadako/Samara is portrayed. Yurei are said to have long black hair (typical of deceased women who wear their hair down during funeral ceremonies), white kimono (again, typical of funeral ceremonies), and limp dangly arms (just 'cause).

Other common yurei traits that Sadako/Samara do not have are hitodama (人魂 ), which are flame-like spirits that accompany a yurei. Also, they aren't supposed to have any legs.


like so

How does this have anything to do with Himeji-Castle?

Pretty, yes?


While others were drunk on the beauty of this marvelous castle, I was eager to find THIS!

THIS very large well!


How is this well connected to the aforementioned yurei and Ringu? Well (haha), this well is famous for the story of a scary ghost lady who is said to still haunt the location.

Good luck trying to read it.


In Japan, there is a famous story known as Banchou Sarayashiki (番町皿屋敷)--known commonly as Okiku and the Nine Plates.  

Now, it is worth noting that the story of Okiku is very old and much of the story's origins are unknown. As a result, there are several versions of the story. However, today I will tell you the story that locals have latched to this particular well, it is known as the Ningyou Joururi version, which is traditionally performed in kabuki (歌舞伎) theater:

Long ago, the lord of Himeji castle was very ill.
His heir, Tomonosuke, who wished to secure his succession,  hoped to deliver 10 special plates to the Shogun (将軍 -- essentially, the general). However, there was a plot to murder Tomonosuke by two retainers; Tetsuzan and Taketsune. Tetsuzan hoped to force Taketsune's  fiance, and lady-in-waiting, Okiku to help murder Tomonosuke.
Unbeknownst to anyone else, Tetsuzan stole one of the 10 plates. He then lured Okiku to his chamber, carrying the box of what she believed were 10 plates, but contained only 9. Tetsuzan attempted to seduce Okiku, but she refused. Annoyed, Tetsuzan ordered Okiku to count the 10 plates. When she saw that there were only 9 plates in the box, Tetsuzan mislead her into believing that she was responsible for the theft--something that he would forgive if Okiku would become his mistress.
She, again, refused his advances. 
Enraged, Tetsuzan beat Okiku with his bokken (木剣 --a wooden sword). He then lowered her into the castle well, erotically teasing her with the possibility that he would drop her. Tetsuzan gave her one last chance; he demanded that she become his lover and help murder Tomonosuke.
She refused a final time.
Her fate was sealed as he beat her with one last blow, sending her hurdling into the pit of the stone well.
But then, he heard:
"One... two... three... four... "
Tetsuzan then relized...
"...five... six... seven..."
That Okiku...
"...eight... nine..."
Had become a ghost.


It is said, that on dark nights at Himeji castle, people will hear Okiku counting the plates.
She apparently rises from the well, but when she realizes that she is missing a 10th plate, she stops counting, shrieks, and descends back into the well.

I recommend looking into the various stories of Okiku, but thus far, this is my favourite because of the location attached to it. From what I understand, all other tales of Okiku take place in undisclosed locations.

And wow, the well is pretty neat:






People toss coins into it, I don't know why? Maybe there's a Japanese custom, but the Western custom of "making a wish" seems kind of weird in this situation... 


Spooky


I definitely recommend a visit to Himeji Castle, and subsequently this cool well. 
The castle beautiful, recently restored, educational and the well is creepy. 

Here are some directions from Himeji station:



The area is spectacular! 
Also, if you g during a festival or holiday, there are many vendors who sell delicious Japanese foods on a stick.

Happy travelling!