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Thursday 9 April 2015

Miyajima, Okunojima, Okonomiyaki, and Our Trip to Hiroshima, Japan

So, I've been wanting to visit Hiroshima since high school.

When I arrived in Japan, I kept putting it off--wanting to wait for the perfect moment. Then our two year stay in Japan turned into one year. I panicked! I NEEDED to see everything. We had planned a trip to Beijing--which never happened and then a trip to Hong Kong--which also never happened. Suddenly, our stay in Japan was climaxing and plummeting before our very eyes.

But then we decided to just go to Hiroshima on a whim and everything turned out fine.

Better than fine. IT WAS THE BEST TRIP EVER!

I have a scale of best trips ever:

1) Salem-Massachusetts, USA
2) HIROSHIMA, Japan 

(There is more  to this scale, but you get the point)

As a result, I am detailing the events of my trip for my family and friends, but if you're planning a trip to Hiroshima I have also included directions and pricing.

The Islands:

While Kirk and I were in Hiroshima, we visited Itsukushima and Okunoshima.

If you're interested in Japanese, shima (jima) means "island" and is represented by this kanji: 

Itsukushima is popularly known as Miyajima, which means "shrine island".

You might recognize this popular image:

Yeah, that's a 'tori 'in the water, it's amazingly beautiful.



Unsurprisingly, the island is filled with Buddhist and Shinto shrines and temples. 

This one was sadly damaged by a typhoon.


Pagoda


The island itself is very charming with lots of nature paths with various 'difficulties'. Luckily, we visited the island at a great time because the cherry blossoms had begun to bloom. 

It was a spectacular view.

There are people who live on the island, many of which run local businesses. Kirk and I walked up and down the streets, gazing at the many shops filled with omiyage (souvenirs). We were told to pick up some homemade momiji manju--so we did. These little maple leaf pastries are filled with sweet bean paste, but you can also get them filled with cheese, chocolate, cream, and green tea.

Oh my...

We also stopped at a local restaurant and tried three kinds of Hiroshima oysters.

Grilled oysters

Deep fried oysters and broiled oysters


The food was fantastic, as was the company. Everyone just seemed to have a good time while on the island. It was sweet and serene. We wished that we could have stayed longer.


But, alas, we had to go back!

In case that you are interested in visiting this particular Hiroshima island, the boating service that we used is located in Peace Park. 
Price:
7200 (for the both of us, there and back, taxes included)

Located here; but you can also travel with another company



The second island that we visited was Okunojima, otherwise known to non-Japanese as "Rabbit Island".



And yeah, there were bunnies...

As well as an abandoned poison gas factory.

Besides the poison gas factory as well as the incredibly cute and, not to mention, approachable bunnies...


They know that you have carrots and lettuce!

... There are also lots of mountainous trails that take you through the ruins of an abandoned WWII military base.

A lot to see

The trek up the mountains is pretty tame, but requires some extra effort. Regardless, the view was worth it:



The climb down was easy enough. It was also pleasant, as bunnies kept popping out of nowhere to say "farewell".



He followed us down for a short while--probably assuming that we had the aforementioned carrots and lettuce

Before the end of the day, we were able to have a satisfying Hiroshima lunch at the island resort (yes, apparently you can stay the night). 

Some sashimi, deep fried octopus, tsukemono, salad, miso soup and rice--This is Kirk's superior lunch, as I opted to not have the sashimi, though I definitely tried some of his


It was a good day.

In case you are interested in going to Okunojima, you will need to get to Tadanoumi station.

You can arrange a train from wherever your station of origin is by using: http://hyperdia.com/
We left Hiroshima station, changed trains at Mihara station and boarded a local train bound for Hiro. It took us about an hour and forty five minutes.

From Tadanoumi station, you will then need to walk 10 minutes to Tadanoumi port (It's just behind the station). 

Then, you will need to purchase tickets:
Price
Round trip: 600\ per person

And then you're off


Hiroshima City

Hiroshima city has some of the best sights that I have ever seen.

It seemed unlike the rest of Japan, on account of it's more lackadaisical feel. Instead of subways, the people of Hiroshima travel by cable car.

We also had the pleasure of eating at some amazing restaurants:

Okonomiyaki

If you plan on visiting Japan, you will have to try okonomiyaki. It is a delicious fried dish typically made from cabbage and batter with extra additives such as cheese, seafood, and pork. There are different styles of okonomiyaki, depending on in which region that you're trying it. For example, in Kyoto we get Osaka styled okonomiyaki, which consists of batter, cabbage, additives, and okonomiyaki sauce. In Hiroshima, you get a similar type of okonomiyaki, but with udon or chinese noodles added to the mix. as well as some egg.




And you get this!


We were recommended a place, we liked it, so we recommend it as well.

The tasty goodness that is fried Japanese cuisine

This particular spot can be found on the second floor of the Hiroshima JR station.
It is a well known place, so beware of long line-ups. Luckily, it is worth the wait.
Price: Approximately 1000\-1800\ per okonomiyaki


Indian Food

Wait what?!

Indian food?

You're in JAPAN, Natasha.

Yes, but Hiroshima has some of the best Indian restaurants outside of India.


Kirk and I chose to go to Roopali's, an Indian restaurant in Hiroshima that is very popular among foreigners.

The interior is just as outstanding as the exterior

This is the address (Just a five minute walk from Hiroshima station): 
インド料理 ルーパリ, Japan, 〒732-0053 
Hiroshima Prefecture, Hiroshima,
 Higashi Ward, Wakakusacho, 14−32



And this is what you get: Heaven on a plate!

Price: Approximately 2000\- 3500\ per person

Hiroshima Castle

A place that you should visit while in Hiroshima is Hiroshima Castle. Not only do you get a lovely does of history (complete with interior museum with English language options), but you are surrounded by a lovely park. 

The majestic castle, complete with breathtaking cherry blossoms 


Aerial view  of the park (kinda)

This is a beautiful site that I strongly recommend, PLUS, the museum has a cool display about 200 year old Japanese plumbing. I'm not kidding! It's interesting. But, mostly the museum details the history of how Hiroshima came to be, post war struggle, and a whole floor dedicated to Japanese swords (for the swords enthusiasts out there).

If you are interested on visiting the castle the price is very modest
Price: 300 \ per person
Also, here are the directions from Hiroshima station:

Hiroshima Castle, 21-1 Motomachi, Naka Ward,
Hiroshima, Hiroshima Prefecture 730-0011, Japan



The Atomic Bomb

By this point, it looks like I'm avoiding the topic of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima.

It's a sensitive subject, and not a lot of people know how to address it properly. 

I've been obsessed with the atomic bombing of Hiroshima since high school. It is the reason why I've been so interested in nuclear technologies and their effects on our communities. 

Yet, when I arrived in Hiroshima, I stared up into the sky, where the giant bomb exploded so many years ago, expecting to feel the despair and haunting cries of the long dead--but, there was nothing.

You see, Hiroshima will mislead you. You will come to Hiroshima, expecting malaise and misfortune, but you will only find peace.

Hiroshima city has defied the odds.

When the atomic bomb went off on August 6th, 1945, the citizens were told that nothing would grow in Hiroshima for another 75 years due to the high levels of radiation. 

And then there is this: 

This old tree not only survived the atomic bomb, but it blooms to this very day.


In fact, near the hypo-centre of the blast, where the remains of houses and people once laid unclaimed, there is now a park. It is rightly called Peace Memorial Park. As Kirk and I walked up and down the various paths in the park, we saw a lot of things: old men playing chess, families picnicking under the cherry blossoms, couples cuddling up, children eating gelato, and so on--but not one person was in distress.

We need not remember the horrible sights that once plagued the city of Hiroshima, but we mustn't forget the lesson that it taught us.

We, as humans, have reached an era wherein science can both create and destroy. Hiroshima showed us how devastating our acts of destruction can be. We mustn't repeat these atrocities. Nuclear weapons do not discriminate; if we try to destroy others, we will destroy ourselves. 

I recommend visiting the Peace Memorial Museum--located within the park.

It's a bit rough, but by the end, you won't be able to defend nuclear arms or the use of them.

So many lives were lost, the aftermath still continues, many survivors later died of cancer--many, still living, struggle with the effects of radiation and the mental scars of that fateful day.

It is our responsibility to make sure that it never happens again.

If you would like to visit the museum, here is the address:

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, 1-2
 Nakajimacho, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi, 
Hiroshima Prefecture 730-0811, Japan



It will change you. 


And, so that was our trip to Hiroshima.
I hope that you will someday visit, too. . 





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